Realm of the Incas & Land of the Warm-Valley People

Wednesday — April 1

When I started to read Peter Frost’s guidebook, Exploring Cusco, I already knew that the language spoken by the Incas was Quechua. What I didn’t know was that the word Inca is a Quechua term that applies to the ruling emperor of the ancient civilization and not really to the people of the land. So, while we will be visiting the "Realm of the Incas" during the next two weeks, we will also be visiting the land of the Quechuas — the modern day name applied to the native people who speak the language. In its plural form, Quechua means “Warm-Valley People” — hence, the title of my blog entry.

Perú has long been on our "must-visit list." Tomorrow’s flights — Washington DC / Atlanta / Lima — will finally get us to Perú.

Day one of our trip will end in Lima, Perú.

After a good night’s sleep in Lima (cross your fingers), we will continue our journey to the city of Cusco, from where we will launch our explorations into Andean Perú.

Using Cusco as a base, we will explore the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu before we move on to Lake Titicaca.

A closer look at the Cusco - Sacred Valley - Machu Picchu portion of our itinerary.

Itinerary

• April 2: Travel from Washington DC to Lima (via Atlanta)
• April 3-6: Cusco
• April 7-9: Sacred Valley
• April 9-13: Machu Picchu
• April 13: Cusco
• April 14-16: Lake Titicaca
• April 16-17: Lima
• April 18: Return to the US

So, off we go tomorrow!

Footnote: the information about Quechuas meaning “warm-valley people” comes from the Victor W. Von Hagen book, Realm of the Incas.

Next Up: Travel Day — Leg One to Atlanta

Travel Day — Leg One to Atlanta

Thursday — April 2

Greetings from the Delta Airlines Crown Club at Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport (ATL). I’m on my own at the moment. Mui’s in one of the phone cubbies, doing a job interview that came out of nowhere. In fact, there were two interviews that popped up suddenly on Tuesday. He managed to get one scheduled for yesterday and agreed to do the other one as a phone interview during our layover in Atlanta today.

But I am getting ahead of myself — let me go back to the beginning of our travel day.

You’d think that a 10:00a flight would mean that we’d sleep in for a bit this morning. But no; we were up at our usual time … 4:00a for Mui; 5:00a for me. The cab was at the door at 7:00a and 30 minutes later we were at Delta’s first class check-in counter at Washington Dulles International Airport (IAD). No, we weren’t trying to avoid the regular check-in lines. For once, we managed to snag first/business class award tickets — hence the access to Delta’s Crown Club, which, in light of Mui’s interview, turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

We begin our travel day with overcast and drizzle at Dulles International Airport.

Flight 1295 took off on time and was uneventful. In fact, the only hiccup thus far today was having to switch mobile lounges at IAD when the first one developed an engine problem as it was departing the main terminal. The first class seats on the MD-88 were quite comfortable – not too deep for my short legs. Service was minimal for the short flight — some snacks and drinks. For a while there, I wasn’t sure we’d get any service at all; it was a bumpy flight all the way to Atlanta.

We landed at ATL a few minutes after our scheduled time to find the weather similar to what we had left behind in DC — overcast and dreary. The pilot wasn’t joking when he said we would be landing on the runway farthest from the terminals; we had a long taxi to reach concourse T. Nor was he kidding when he said that our arrival gate was the farthest one out; we had a considerable hike to the underground rail system that connects the concourses. To keep the trend going, we stayed on the train until the last stop – concourse E.

After dropping off our carry-on bags at the Crown Club, we went to get a bite of lunch. Concourse E has only two sit-down eateries – a sushi restaurant and a TGIF; the rest of the eateries are in the food court. Since I prefer my fish cooked and not raw, we ended up at TGIF. A couple of appetizers proved to be plenty for us.

Time to wrap things up and go to the gate for our Lima flight … more later.

Next Up: Travel Day — Leg Two En Route to Lima

Travel Day — Leg Two En Route to Lima

Thursday — April 2

You know what the best thing was about the Crown Club at ATL? The thimble-size chocolate mousse cups and brownies Mui found at the buffet that was laid out shortly before we left the lounge. But those yummy goodies are things of the past; time to focus on the here and now aboard Flight 235.

We had our second travel hiccup of the day at gate E5 where boarding for our 6 hour and 6 minute flight to Lima was delayed by 20 minutes due to the late arrival of our aircraft from England. This in turn meant that the required security sweep for our flight got off to a late start. Then, like dominos, the delays started to pile up — a minor maintenance issue, late arriving connecting passengers, etc., etc. Before we knew it, the time was 6:45p — well past our scheduled departure of 5:15p. The silver lining is that we are terminating our travel in Lima tonight. But the delay means we’ll be losing a precious hour of sleep from what was already going to be a very short night. Good thing we’re staying at the Ramada Costa del Sol at the airport and not at a hotel in the city!

Once our Boeing 767-400 was free of the shackles binding it to terra firma, the overcast and drizzle that had followed us from DC to Atlanta was finally behind us. Flying over a bed of fluffy white clouds, we enjoyed the blue skies until they were replaced by the inky darkness of nightfall.

A sea of clouds stretches out as far as the eye can see.

I may be just 5'2" (1.5 m) tall, but that doesn’t mean that I can’t appreciate
the extra legroom that comes with flying in business class.

The flight was a bit bumpy until we got over Florida, causing dinner service to be delayed. The evening meal began with cocktails and warm-from-the-oven mixed nuts, which we enjoyed as we flew over Havana, Cuba. We were then served a delicious, spicy soup; humus and fresh rolls; and baby spinach salad. Next came the entrée — steak and shrimp for Mui; mushroom ravioli for me. The crowning touch was dessert — vanilla ice cream topped with hot fudge, nuts, and a dollop of whipped cream.

I have to say, it wouldn’t take much for us to get used to traveling like this on a regular basis .

For now, good night from somewhere in the skies en route to Lima.

Next Up: Travel Day — Welcome to Lima

Travel Day — Welcome to Lima

Friday — April 3

We landed at Aeropuerto Jorge Chavez in Lima at 11:45p last night, just as the pilot had projected when he took off from Atlanta. It took us another hour to get through the airport formalities, with the longest time spent waiting for our bags to show up on the baggage carousel. We took heart from the fact that we were not alone. Finally, about 45 minutes after having gone through passport control, our bags loaded on a cart, we were headed towards the dreaded green light/red light process at customs. I wasn’t dreading going through because I had something to hide, but because I seem to always get the red light when I hit such buttons, thus necessitating a bag search. This time I passed with flying colors. Mui was right on my heels, taking advantage of my green light.

It was getting on towards 1:00a when we crossed the connecting bridge to the Ramada Costa del Sol. Check-in was quick and painless. For the first time in our travels, we had our passports photocopied — necessary proof for the hotel so that we don’t have to pay the 19% IGV (tax). This is a process we will be repeating for each hotel stay in Perú.

The hotel may well lack the charm and ambiance of a boutique hotel, but being attached to the main terminal at the airport, it has one thing going for it — location, location, location. Room 237 was clean, quiet, and had the most important element we were looking for — comfortable beds! The room was like a sauna when we first entered it — no surprise since the temperature when we landed in Lima was 81F (27C). We immediately turned on the AC. In the 15 minutes or so it took us to get ready for bed, the room was cool enough that we actually needed to use the covers.

At one o’clock in the morning, we didn’t need charm and ambiance.

The last thing I remember was that the clock display read 1:30a and we had a 5:30a wake up call.

Next Up: Day 1 — Cusco Here We Come

Day 1 — Cusco Here We Come

Friday — April 3

The Airbus 319 that is taking us to Cusco is only half-full. Once the doors were closed, I moved to Row 23, leaving our assigned seats in Row 19 to Mui. We’re back to the reality of coach travel; no more spacious seats for us until we are aboard the flight that will be returning us to the US in 14 days’ time. In the meantime, being able to spread out helps and I can comfortably work on this blog entry.

We could have used a few more hours of shut eye when the wake up call came at 5:30a, but like the good travelers that we are, we got up and started preparing for the day ahead. By 6:30a, we were in the lobby, partaking of the breakfast included in the price of our room. The buffet was fairly lackluster, but we weren’t very hungry anyway. After exchanging the free pisco sour coupons we’d been given at check-in for a couple of bottles of water, we made our way back across the connecting bridge to the airport terminal.

With our online check-in boarding passes in hand, we made our way to the bag drop off counter. The LAN agent didn’t blink an eye at the weight of our bags — two days earlier, and we might have had to pay a charge, but as of April 1, domestic passengers are authorized two pieces each for a total of 50 lbs (23 kg). That task taken care of, we moved onto the next one. In Perú, departure taxes are not included in the airfare, so we headed off to pay the aeropuerto tarifa (airport fee). Mui whipped out the first of four envelopes I had prepared for these fees before leaving home and soon we were on our way with a couple of centavos for the difference between the actual fee and the $12 payment we made. Once we were through security, we had a very short wait at the gate. Before we knew it, we were onboard LP 73, winging our way towards Cusco.

A quarter of the 50-minute flight is already over. That we have snacks to munch on is a reminder that we’re not flying a US carrier. The take-off from Lima did not afford any scenic views — the city was blanketed by smog. That’s OK; we made up for the lackluster departure scenery as soon as we left the city behind. I was surprised by the rolling, verdant mountains and valleys dotted with the red roofs of settlements, rivers snaking throughout. I guess I was expecting a more alpine-like scenery.

I didn’t have to wait long for my scenery expectations to be met. In fact, I can barely take the time to type as my eyes are constantly being drawn to the Andean landscape that is spread out against brilliant blue skies dotted with puffy, white clouds. The mountains are downright spectacular — jagged peaks crowned with snow; glaciers flowing down from mountain tops; emerald green lakes glinting in the sun. There is quite a bit of terminal moraine as well — evidence that many of the glaciers are in retreat. One mountain is particularly impressive. I can’t help but wonder if it might be Salcantay, the 38th highest peak in the Andes and the 12th highest in Perú. From the looks of it, it certainly fits the bill. Maybe Vidal can help me identify it.

Spectacular Andean scenery en route to Cusco.

The Andean peaks disappeared as suddenly as they appeared. The snow-capped mountains have been replaced with verdant valleys and a patchwork of farmland. There are a great many switchback roads running up to the highlands. I just might need my Dramamine as we drive around these roads! I’ve been so looking forward to this trip. The scenery I’ve enjoyed in the last 30 minutes has just whetted my appetite for exploring Perú.

We’re on final approach into Cusco. Houses and all kinds of other structures are clustered everywhere. From the air, this town looks to be much bigger than I expected. In a little bit, I’ll be finding out if that’s the case from the ground as well … more later.

On final approach to landing in Cusco.

Next Up: Day 1 — Laundry Time!?!

Day 1 — Laundry Time!?!

Friday — April 3

My plans for Cusco did not include laundry. At least not as the first activity upon arrival in a city filled with lots of interesting things to do. The plan was to check-in to the hotel, rest a bit — something we don’t usually do, but at 11,000 ft (~3,350 m) above sea level you need to adjust your pace a bit — and then go for a stroll around the city. Best laid plans and all that — sigh!

So, why am I sitting in a room in which every available surface is covered with damp clothes, waiting for Mui to return from a nearby lavanderia (laundromat of sorts)? It seems that our bags were amongst the ones we saw sitting in the rain at the airport in Atlanta. We noticed our bags were a bit damp when we collected them in Lima last night, but we were too tired to pay much attention. I’m sure you can imagine my reaction when I opened the bags a little while ago to find the contents ranging from damp to downright soaked!!! I’m not sure why we didn’t line the bags with a plastic liner like we usually do. Maybe it was because on all those trips where we did take the precaution, we never had a problem. We’ve learned a lesson that we won’t soon forget.

I have about an hour before Vidal comes to pick us up for a stroll around Cusco; might as well put the time to good use and add to the blog by going back to our arrival in the city that the Incas considered to be the “navel of the earth” — the capital city of the great empire. (That “navel” thing … must be a literal translation; it should probably read “center.”)

We were wheels down at Aeropuerto Velasco Astete at 9:40a. With the aircraft only half-full, and most passengers staying aboard to continue to the next destination, we were off the plane in no time. It didn’t take us long to get our bags, and within a few minutes, we were outside the terminal where Vidal was waiting for us as promised.

A private van took us into town and up into the San Blas neighborhood where our hotel is located. We received a warm welcome at Los Apus. No sooner were we seated at one of the tables in the enclosed courtyard that cups of fresh-brewed Mate de Coca (tea made from coca leaves) were placed in front of us.

Let me explain about the mate. This is an herbal tea indigenous to the Andes. The tea is made from the leaves of the coca plant. Yes — the same plant used to make cocaine. Coca leaves, which can be chewed or used to brew a tea, help to increase the absorption of oxygen into the blood. That, in turn, helps to combat altitude sickness. Hence its common use in Andean Perú and other South American countries.

Mate de coca helps increase the absorption of oxygen into the blood, thus helping to combat altitude sickness.

(Put your mind at ease — in the minimal quantities we will be ingesting, we are in no danger of getting hooked. I could quote all kinds of scientific facts, but I’ll keep it simple. Here’s how Wikipedia explains it: “The leaves of the coca plant contain several alkaloids including cocaine; in fact, they comprise the sources for cocaine's chemical production, though the amount of cocaine in the leaves is so small, around 0.2%, that in order to make a gram of cocaine, 500 grams of coca leaves would be needed.”)

As we sipped our coca tea, Vidal took care of getting us checked-in. Soon, we were completing the registration forms and having our passports photocopied — thus saving on the 19% service fee that is normally charged by hotels. In the meantime, our bags were taken up to Room 202, which I had specifically requested because it has a small balcony. After we sipped another round of coca tea and finalized plans for the afternoon, Vidal left us to get settled in.

Cusco abounds with hotels in every price range. Aside from a clean room with a private bath, we had one criteria that played a role in choosing Los Apus over other hotels — availability of central heating. Most of the hotels in Cusco — indeed in Andean Perú — do not have this amenity.

So far, we’re happy with our selection. The hotel staff has been friendly and welcoming. Although they speak very little English, we’ve managed to communicate our needs. Our room, though on the “cozy” side, is clean and pleasant, with a rustic décor that is enhanced by a beamed-ceiling. The en suite facilities are in an enclosed area built to look like a tile-roofed hut — quaint and cute. Compared with the size of the room, the facilities are spacious with a raised shower, which Mui quickly became acquainted with when he banged his shin against the riser — no worries; he survived the minor encounter, but does have a handsome bump to show for his run-in with the tile. The balcony is small and narrow, and there’s not much of a view since it overlooks the street, but it’s always nice to be able to step out to take a look around and get some fresh air.

Room 202 at Los Apus — cozy, cute, and has central heating.

Room 202 at Los Apus — the beamed ceiling adds a rustic charm.
(edge of tile-roofed enclosure for the facilities visible at the bottom of the picture)

Room 202 at Los Apus — spacious, clean, en suite facilities.

Mui has returned from the lavanderia with the news that our clothes will be ready first thing tomorrow morning. While he was out, he also bought some bottled water to fill up our camelbaks for tomorrow. We’ll also be using the bottled water to brush our teeth. We don't usually do this when we're traveling, but this was a consistent theme in my pre-trip research, so we’re going to follow the advice.

It’s just about time for Vidal to come back to escort us around Cusco and help us get the lay of the land. We’re going to wait for him in the courtyard and maybe sip some more coca tea to help speed up our acclimatization to altitude. We’re also taking Diamox (acetazolomide) to help with this process. So far, aside from feeling incredibly tired — no surprise; we've had about 4 hours of sleep in the past 36 hours — we have no adverse symptoms of altitude. Knock on wood that this continues. More later …

Next Up: Day 1 — Who is Vidal?

Day 1 — Who is Vidal?

Friday — April 3

I’ve made several references to Vidal, so let me take a minute to introduce him. Vidal Jaquehua is the founder and manager of Adventure Holidays Perú, the small Cusco-based company with which we made all of the arrangements for our trip.

We had the good luck of meeting Vidal at the Adventures in Travel Expo in Washington DC in March 2008. We were immediately charmed by his friendly demeanor. When he spoke of the experiences awaiting us in Perú, his eyes shined with enthusiasm. The glowing recommendation two of his former clients gave us while we were visiting Vidal’s expo booth was all the encouragement we needed to ask him for an itinerary/quote.

Although we did get itineraries/quotes from other companies as well — some small, some big; some Perú-based, some US- or UK-based — we quickly concluded that we wanted to work with Vidal to organize this trip. His willingness to listen to what we wanted, offer suggestions, and prepare an itinerary for a trip that matched “our” travel style were the determining factors in our decision. That he gave us a good price was a factor as well, but was not nearly as important as his flexibility and promptness in responding to us throughout the planning phase of this trip.

If I were to say that “We would highly recommend Vidal’s services” now, you might counter with, “But, he hasn’t even guided you yet.” True. However, I have first hand information from another couple who used his services in February and from the two women he guided on the Inca Trail (he is a licensed guide). I have no reason to suspect that our experience will be any less “wonderful” than theirs was. That said — I’ll wait to give my official endorsement after we conclude our trip.

Vidal and Mui enjoying lunch at Yaku Mama's Grill located on Plaza de Armas in Cusco.

Next Up: Day 1 — A Stroll in Cusco

Day 1 — A Stroll in Cusco

Friday — April 3

The damp clothes I set out earlier to dry have been put away. We had planned to dine at El Patio, the onsite restaurant at Los Apus, but we’re simply too tired to do food justice. I’m snacking on some crackers as I write this blog entry, trying to stay awake until 9:00p to get my body in sych with local time. Not that there should be any jet lag — Perú is in the same time zone as Washington DC; except that Daylight Saving Time is not recognized here.

Having last eaten a small snack on the Lima-Cusco flight, we were starving by the time we were ready to set out for our stroll around Cusco. Thus, the first item of business when Vidal came to pick us up was to get a bite to eat in order to recharge our fast-waning energy.

Leading us to Siete Culebras (seven snakes), a narrow alley just down the street from Los Apus, Vidal took a shortcut to the Plaza de las Nazarenas. Oh boy — the walk up the alley was short, but the slight uphill grade quickly left us breathless, reminding us of the necessity to slow our pace while at altitude.

Siete Culebras is named for the nearby House of the Serpents. The structure is what is known as transitional architecture. That is, it was built by Inca masons working for the Spanish conquistadors. The masons carved reliefs of snakes, considered symbols of wisdom in Inca mythology, into the Inca wall that forms the base of the house. We took a few moments to search out and find the reliefs before turning our attention to a nearby church that was a later addition to the Seminary of San Antonio Abad (built in the late 1590s). Any other time, we would have stayed longer to explore the church and get acquainted with the llamas that were seemingly guarding the entrance to Siete Culebras, but something more important was distracting us — namely, lunch.

Can you find the seven snakes of Siete Culebras?

Going down a steep, narrow, cobblestone street that anywhere else in the world would be pedestrian-only, but which we shared with vehicles, we made our way to what used to be called Wacaypata (Weeping Square, supposedly so named for the grieving that was done here when the ruling Inca died). Today it is the hub-bub of activity known as Plaza de Armas. Vehicles zooming by at a dizzying speed; locals and tourists crowding the stores, visiting the great stone edifice that is the Cathedral, sitting on the benches in the park; vendors hawking their wares — Welcome to Cusco!

Expertly, Vidal guided us to Yaku Mama's Grill, one of the many eateries rimming the controlled-chaos that is Plaza de Armas. Seated at a small table on the narrow balcony overlooking the plaza, we ordered a simple, yet tasty meal of sandwiches as we weren’t feeling adventurous enough to try Peruvian fare yet. In no time, what should have been a 15-minute lunch stretched to an hour as we feasted our eyes on the imposing Cathedral and the Iglesia de la Compañia (Church of the Company — a Jesuit church built over the ruins of Amarucancha, the palace of Wayna Capac, the last Inca to preside over a united empire.)

View of Plaza de Armas from our table on the balcony of Yaku Mama's Grill.

(Taking handheld photos for a stitch is not easy; forgive me for messing this one up. Nonetheless, it gives you an idea of what Plaza de Armas looks like. The building in the center is the Cathedral; the building at the right edge is the Jesuit church.)

As interesting as the magnificent edifices were, though, what really captured our attention was all the people in the plaza — street cleaners sweeping away trash; ice cream vendors doling out sweet treats; businessmen hurrying across the traffic-laden streets, briefcases securely clutched in their hands; mothers with their kids bundled on their backs; school children in colorful uniforms skipping around the park, delaying that moment when they have to go home and do homework; people sitting on benches, resting for a bit before resuming their walk towards unknown destinations; locals walking their dogs; women and girls in colorful costumes, baby llamas cradled in their arms, crying out “un photo, un sol.” And so much more!

Street scene — Plaza de Armas.

We could have stayed on the balcony at Yaku Mama’s for the rest of the day, but we had things to do, not the least of which was exchanging some dollars for nuevo soles, the Peruvian currency. Leading us down Calle Loreto (which took longer than one might expect because we frequently stopped to admire the incredible workmanship of the Inca walls on either side of us), Vidal took us to a reputable cambio. It felt odd to be exchanging money in what looked to be a camera shop, but as we later saw, this was not all that unusual — cambios seem to be located in just about any type of establishment.

Seeing as we were not far from the Qoricancha (aka Korikancha), we headed in that direction next. As it was nearing closing time, however, Vidal suggested that we enjoy the site from outside so as not to waste our ticket on a quick visit. We did not oppose this recommendation. From the front garden, we admired the imposing sight of the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo that sits over the ruins of the Qoricancha, the Court of Gold — one of the most important temples of the Inca empire. Dating back to around 1200 AD, the temple was also the principal astronomical observatory of the empire.

It is said that the walls of the Qoricancha, which was dedicated to sun worship, were sheathed in gold and silver that was removed to pay the ransom the Spanish demanded for the release of Inca Atahualpa. It seems that the golden disc of the sun, the holiest of the religious symbols of the empire, survived the initial looters, but eventually that too disappeared. Some historians believe that it was taken away and hidden before the main party of Spaniards arrived in the 1530s, but this is all conjecture. There has been no sign of the disc to this day.

The Church and Convent were consecrated in 1633. However, Santo Domingo was heavily damaged in the earthquake of 1650, making it impossible to inhabit. Interestingly, the Inca walls upon which the buildings were constructed suffered no damage from the quake. The current buildings are the result of the 1680 reconstruction efforts.

Just as I clicked the camera shutter one last time, the heavens opened up in a deluge. We’d been watching the storm clouds gathering, providing a dramatic backdrop to the brilliant white walls of the convent, and had hoped to escape unscathed, but Pachamama (Mother Earth in Inca mythology) had other plans. Putting away the cameras, we walked back to our hotel, unfazed by the liquid sunshine pouring down on us. We’d had an excellent afternoon and a little rain wasn’t going to deflate our spirits.

The Convent of Santo Domingo sits atop the ruins of the Qoricancha.

Tomorrow, Vidal will be picking us up at 7:30a to take us to some of the sites on the outskirts of Cusco. Time to put the Boleto Turistico to work. (The tourist ticket provides admittance to many of the sites in and around Cusco.) Until then …

Next Up: Day 2 — Tambomachay

Day 2 — Tambomachay

Saturday — April 4

Amazing what a good night’s sleep will do. We were up at 5:30a, raring to go, and out the door by 7:30a, but not before having a light breakfast in the enclosed roof terrace at Los Apus.

Los Apus — early breakfast is served in the enclosed roof terrace.

We had a very full day with no adverse effects from being at altitude except for a little breathlessness that evidenced itself when we were going up steps or walking uphill. Slowing our pace did the trick and we were able to enjoy exploring and hiking through the countryside. If we are symptom-free tomorrow, we’re going to stop taking the Diamox and drinking the coca tea.

Today’s itinerary called for visits to multiple sites on the outskirts of Cusco. Knowing that the tour busses would not be far behind, Vidal took us to the farthest site and we worked back from there.

Our first stop was at Tambomachay, located at 12,400 ft (~3,765 m) above sea level — our highest point to date on this trip.

The Inca culture worshipped all aspects of nature — the sun, the moon, the mountains, the water … to name a few. They built temples dedicated to the worship of natural elements. Tambomachay was a water temple, often referred to as "Baño del Inca" (the Inca’s Bath) and was used for ritual bathing. Some Peruvian historians claim that the place was used by Inca Tupac Yupanqui as a hunting lodge.

The temple was partially destroyed during the colonial period. The fact that the spring that feeds the three fountains today flows unaltered from the way it did during Inca times makes this temple one of the best preserved of its kind. Incorporated into one of the finely honed and shaped walls is a giant boulder left in situ. The spring that feeds the fountain follows a path beneath this rock before it reaches the surface. For a culture that worshipped nature, to have water seemingly born from a rock would have been ample reason to choose this particular site for the building of Tambomachay.

Tambomachay was a temple dedicated to the worship of water.

Numerology plays an important role in the Inca culture. The two niches on the right are sort of a like the yin and yang, representing a pair; a male and a female. The four windows at the top represent the four kingdoms that formed the Inca empire. In fact, the empire was known as Tawanintisuyu, the four kingdoms of the sun (Tawan=four; inti=sun; suyu=kingdom). (Some translate Tawanintisuyu as the "Four Quarters of the Earth".) As Vidal explained, many of the Quechua names are literal words that describe places. Tambomachay, for example, can be translated as “Storage Rock” (tambo=storage; machay=rock). A reference to the rock stored in the wall? Or a reference to the water (in the form of the spring) stored in the rock? Or maybe both??

As impressive as the whole site was, I was especially struck by the craftsmanship of the walls of the temple. More specifically, I was impressed by the walls where the Inca masons turned a corner by shaping rocks to form a seamless curve rather than abutting two rocks together and taking the easy way out. Such craftsmanship, Vidal told us, is another indication that Tambomachay was a place of importance and that its use was probably restricted to the Inca nobility.

Seamless corners — a hallmark of Inca craftsmanship.

Next Up: Day 2 — Hiking in the Countryside

Day 2 — Hiking in the Countryside

Saturday — April 4

As busloads of tourists started pulling into Tambomachay, we headed across the road to Puca Pucara. The name of the site is translated as “Red Fortress.” It was long-assumed that Puca Pucara was built to defend the road leading into the Sacred Valley, but later studies have indicated that it was never a defensive stronghold. One school of thought says that it was a roadhouse where travelers were lodged and goods, animals, and the like were temporarily stored. Another theory, based on the writings of a Spanish chronicler, is that it was Puca Pucara and not Tambomachay that was the hunting lodge of the Inca Tupac Yupanqui. Since no dwellings were found at Tambomachay, this could well be the case. It could also be that back in those days, Tambomachay and Puca Pucara were part of the same settlement with the former being the religious sector and the latter forming the urban sector.

Puca Pucara — likely a wayside inn that provided lodging to travelers.

We did not spend much time at Puca Pucara. Not only was there little to see, but we were also anxious to start our hike to Qenqo — the first real test of our activity capabilities at altitude. It turns out that we did quite well. We took twice as long as the average person might, but that was due mostly to our penchant for wanting to capture images of just about anything that caught our eye, including a young girl shepherding her llamas from the grazing field back to the barn.

A young girl and her llamas.

The weather was perfect for our hike — warm enough to shed layers along the way, but with a nice breeze to keep us from becoming overheated. The best part of the hike — we had the trail virtually to ourselves. We encountered a few small groups that quickly left us eating their dust. Well, not really; it’s just that they were hiking at a much faster pace. That’s OK; we weren’t in a race.

The scenery was wonderful — verdant, rolling hills and valleys; pigs wallowing in mud, sheep grazing in the fields, burros calling out as we passed by; colorful flowers hosting butterflies and bumblebees; brilliant, blue-green hummingbirds gathering nectar; farmers tilling their land; young men collecting good soil for resale in markets; and a surprise find — a not-yet-announced excavation of an ancient site.

A yet-to-be-announced archeological find is one of the surprises on our hike.

We respected the place being an active excavation site and enjoyed it from a distance. I was especially intrigued by the face seemingly carved into the big rock ... perhaps a rendering of Viracocha (creator of all things and god of the sun and storms)? Or maybe it was just my active imagination. The site has not been given a name as yet and there's very little information about it that has been made public. When it is announced to the world, we'll be able to say, "Oh yeah; we know all about that place."

Next we came to Salumpuncu (aka Lajo or simply, the Temple of the Moon). As we approached the site, Vidal noted that the locals still come to this temple to make offerings — crops, coca leaves, sea shells, and the like. He pointed out small caves with obvious soot and ash residue from the burning of such offerings. Vidal also explained that the offerings tend to be made at night, which would be in keeping with the site being a place to worship the moon. In reality, however, the locals go at night for a more practical reason — so that they are not disturbed by the tourists who visit during the day.

Salumpuncu — Temple of the Moon.

When we reached the temple, we went into one of the caves where mummies would have been placed. Once our eyes adjusted to the darkness of the cave, we were able to see the niche in which the mummy would have been put along with some personal belongings and the altar that was carved out of a rock in situ. I’ve read that on the full moon closest to the winter solstice, this altar is bathed by moonlight, which comes in through a fissure in the ceiling of the cave. On the way out, Vidal pointed out carved representations of a snake, puma, and condor — important elements of the Inca trilogy. The snake represented wisdom, the puma represented strength and power, and the condor represented freedom.

You have to use your imagination, but here’s a snake carved in relief on the wall leading to the entrance of the mummy cave.

From the Temple of the Moon, we continued to the last stop of our hike, Qenqo. As we made our way down to the site, we found puppets hanging from the trees. Vidal explained that these were effigies known as compadres and comadres, put up by young boys and girls during a fiesta in February. The way I understood it, the boys string up female puppets and the girls string up male puppets. Each then try to bring down the puppets of their own gender by sneaking around under the cover of darkness.

A compadre and a comadre swinging companionably in the tree.

Qenqo was a waca (shrine) dedicated to the worship of Pachamama. The name of the site means zig-zag or labyrinth, and is derived from the zig-zag channels that served as paths for the chicha or sacrificial llama blood used in ceremonies. I read on one website that the trail resulting from the chicha or blood would then be interpreted by priests — Inca-style fortune telling perhaps!

This waca is considered to be one of the best examples of something the Incas did really well — carving rocks in situ. In this case, they created an entire temple structure out of a single rock. The limestone rock that stands in the center of an amphitheater-like area has been eroded by time, but it used to cast a shadow that looked like a puma. Not realizing that the puma here was a shadow, the Spaniards apparently spent a considerable amount of time looking for the real thing. The caves scattered around the temple were used to store the mummies of priests and nobility. These mummies would be taken out and placed on altars around the site on days of religious importance.

Some say that this rock at Qenqo represents a sitting puma; others claim that it was a phallic symbol.

I don’t think we did Qenqo the justice it deserves. We certainly did not take the time to explore it's labyrinthine layout. Blame it on the hike; we were a little tired and as it was well past 1:00p, we were more than a little hungry. After taking a quick peek inside one of the mummy caves, we headed back to Cusco.

Next Up: Day 2 — An Afternoon in Cusco

Day 2 — An Afternoon in Cusco

Saturday — April 4

Back in Cusco, Vidal took us to A Mi Manera (My Way — just like the Frank Sinatra song). A family-operated restaurant located on the second floor of a courtyard on Calle Triunfo, just off Plaza de Armas, it was the perfect place for a relaxing lunch — delightful, brightly decorated, great service, and excellent cuisine. A Mi Manera definitely delivered on the promise printed on the front of the menu — we experienced Peruvian gastronomy with all of our senses. I’d have to say, however, that the Rocoto (a spicy, hot pepper filled with beef and raisins, served with golden potatoes) Vidal ordered ensured that he’d be using a few more senses than we did — ay, ay, ay!

Being unfamiliar with portion sizes, we ordered a bit more than we should have — lesson learned, we won’t be ordering both an appetizer and a main course from now on. When it comes to dessert, though, all bets are off — especially if they all taste as heavenly as the Caprichiosa (chocolate mousse) we ordered to top off today's lunch.

Caprichiosa — simply heavenly!

After our meal, we took a meandering walk back into Plaza de Armas where we spent an hour exploring the Cathedral of Santo Domingo, or simply the Cusco Cathedral.

The Cathedral of Santo Domingo dominates the Plaza de Armas.
(The small building to the right is the Iglesia del Triunfo.)

The conquistadors could have picked any spot in Cusco for the Cathedral, but they chose to build it over the ruins of Quiswarcancha, the palace of Inca Viracocha (named for the creator of all things and god of the sun and storms himself). The reason? They wanted to replace an important symbol of the Inca religious beliefs with one that represented Christianity. Construction of the cross-shaped Cathedral began in 1559 and took nearly 100 years to complete. Most of the stones used in the construction were taken from a nearby holy Inca site, Sacsaywaman. In doing so, the Spanish probably intended to destroy the site, which had a defensive purpose as well as a religious one.

There was a lot to see inside the Cathedral where preparations were underway for Easter celebrations. We wandered around, stopping to take a closer look at anything that caught our eye, including the embossed, beaten-silver altar that is in use today. I have to admit that I much preferred the elaborately carved alder-wood altar that it replaced — a true piece of art that sits covered in dust behind the silver altar. The carved wooden choir that we briefly explored was also most impressive.

At one point, we sat in one of the pews to watch the Señor de Los Temblores (Lord of the Earthquakes) being prepared for the procession that traditionally takes place on the Monday before Easter. Legend has it that a statue of Christ on the cross was paraded around the city during the earthquake of 1650. When the tremors stopped shortly thereafter, the faithful credited the Señor with averting a major disaster. And so was born a tradition that has become part of Easter celebrations. We arranged our itinerary so as to be in Cusco on the day of the procession; if we’re lucky, we’ll get a good spot from which to watch the proceedings.

Señor de Los Temblores
(image scanned from postcard)

The Cusco Cathedral has become a repository of colonial art in addition to being a place of worship. The oversized paintings cover almost all of the available wall space, with some of them being framed around doors in order to make the best use of the space. Most of the paintings are from the Escuela Cusqueña (Cusco School of Art), which was established by the Spanish to educate the locals in the disciplines of European-style artwork. The Quechua artists were only allowed to paint scenes that carried European or Catholic significance and they were not permitted to sign their work. These artists sometimes found ways to incorporate Inca iconography into their work — such as the roasted cuy (guinea pig — a cultural delicacy still served today) and the bottles of chicha (a brew derived from fermented maize that was often used in rituals) incorporated into the painting of the Last Supper by Marcos Zapata.

The Last Supper as depicted by a Quechua artist from the Escuela Cusqueña.
(image scanned from postcard)

From the Cathedral, we went onto take a quick peek around the adjacent Iglesia del Triunfo (Church of the Triumph), which was the first Christian church built in Cusco. It was constructed over the ruins of the Suntur Wasi, the Inca armory where the Spanish were trapped during Manco Inca’s 1536 siege — no wonder it was destroyed and replaced with a church! The name of the church refers to the eventual triumph of the Spanish over the Inca rebels.

We completed our explorations and exited through the main door of the church, dodging the gauntlet of locals selling everything from finger puppets, to painted gourds, to massages and manicures. Then we did our best not to fall into the clutches of youngsters rattling off “Washington DC capital, president Barack Obama, Barack Obama good man, you want buy something” as soon as they figured out we were from the US. We said “No, gracias,” to all of the offers, but did stop to purchase some postcards of the interior of the Cathedral since photography was not allowed inside.

Flagging down a cab at the curb, Vidal next took us to the Church of San Cristobal, perched on Colcampata Hill overlooking Cusco. The church is currently closed to the public due to an active excavation project, but we were there to enjoy a bird’s eye view of the city, so we didn’t mind that we were unable to go inside. Even as we enjoyed the scenery, storm clouds were gathering in the distance, accompanied by occasional rumbles of thunder. Before long, a light drizzle started to fall. It didn’t last long, however, and the sun was soon shining brightly with the gift of a rainbow in the distance.

A glimpse of Cusco from the Church of San Cristobal.

A meandering walk through charming cobblestone streets brought us back to Los Apus. Our timing was perfect. No sooner were we inside our room that the heavens opened up in a downpour. Standing on the balcony, we enjoyed the refreshing coolness the rain brought with it and watched as it washed away the dust and grime in the streets.

Next Up: Day 2 — Night Out on the Town

Day 3 — Market Day in Pisac

Sunday — April 5

This was a day planned specifically for Mui. When my pre-trip research revealed that Pisac has a market on Sundays that includes a procession of the varayocs (mayors of the local villages), he just had to be there to film the festivities. I enjoy the local color of markets, but I’m not big on crowds. However, with the promise of visiting the Pisac ruins as well as the market, I was looking forward to making our first trip into El Valle Sagrado (the Sacred Valley).

Our day started at 7:00a with Vidal picking us up from Los Apus. On our way out of town, we made a detour to see the immense statue that stands high over Cusco — El Cristo Blanco (the White Christ). A gift from grateful Palestinian refugees, the 30-foot (~9 m) tall statue is reminiscent of Rio de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer. Impressive from a distance, the statue is downright awe-inspiring when you stand at its feet and look up, and up, and up to see the face.

El Cristo Blanco overlooks Cusco.

There was a bit of haze lying over the valley, so I didn’t take any panoramic shots, opting to record the bird’s eye view of the city in my brain cells instead. Though our time was limited here, that did not stop us from wandering over to the far side for a glimpse of Sacsaywaman, one of the holiest of Inca sites. We’ll be stopping there on our way out to Ollantaytambo in a few days.

Vidal catches me off guard after I turn away from taking a photo of Sacsaywaman.

By 8:00a, we were winding our way towards Pisac. Despite the light morning haze, the views of the Sacred Valley were spectacular. We stopped at a couple of overlooks to capture some digital images to add to those we were storing in our minds. The mountains were covered in verdant vegetation through which red soil peeked through. Add to that blue skies and brilliant white clouds; neon blue-green hummingbirds gathering nectar from tiny, yellow flowers — a very colorful scene indeed.

Glimpse of El Valle Sagrado veiled by the morning haze.

We arrived in Pisac as the town was getting into the swing of market day. Just outside the entrance to the “tourist market,” locals were congregated around vehicles from which bundles of produce were being unloaded. Vidal explained that the townspeople lie in wait in order to get the best pick of whatever is available. Nearby, elders from the 13 villages that are a two- to five-hour walk away through the mountains were gathering for the procession to the church. Mui was ready to start filming there and then, but Vidal convinced him that better opportunities were ahead and led us to a communal bakery nearby.

The courtyard we found ourselves in was dominated by a wood-burning oven blackened by soot from years and years of operation. The baker was pulling out roasted cuy and potatoes from the oven. (Remember, that’s guinea pig, a delicacy in Perú.) Thanks, but we’ll pass — just couldn’t see ourselves eating roasted cuy when their live cousins were running around their “cuy houses” just a few feet away.) With the cuy cooling on the table, the baker then slid a paddle-full of empanadas inside the oven. Would have waited to have some of those, but the market was calling our name.

Cuy is considered a delicacy by Peruanos.
(just so you know, what looks like the innards of the guinea pig is actually the herb-stuffing used to flavor the cuy)

Slowly, we made our way through the tourist market where vendors were setting up for the day ahead. Everywhere we looked there were displays of alpaca goods, including sweaters, scarves, and chullos (knit caps indigenous to Perú); carved gourds; pan flutes; necklaces, earrings, and bracelets made of polished stone; handmade tapestries and bags; and just about any kind of trinket one might desire. The colorful displays and the calls of the vendors invited us to dally, but we were here for the local market. That did not stop the shopper in the family from checking things out (if I have to explain who that is, you don’t know us well)!

Colorful display of dolls in the tourist market at Pisac.

Color, color, color! That was my first impression of the local market, which was far more authentic than the touristy stalls we had passed. The locals went about their business with little regard to the presence of the few visitors that had ventured into their domain. Campesinos (farmers) selling fresh produce and flowers; villagers touting everything from bags of salt, quinoa, and rice, to matches, to sweets, to vibrant natural dyes; old women sorting through piles of potatoes and corn; gnarled hands shelling corn kernels the size of almonds; men wheeling in goods on makeshift carts, bicycles, and anything else they could get their hands on; kids playing with makeshift toys; villagers bargaining and bartering; locals standing around chatting; people hurrying home with baked goods fresh from the communal bakery — the chocolate cakes still in the tins they were baked in looked quite good. Mui was in heaven; I was doing my best not to be overwhelmed by immersing myself in the local color and trying to forget the crowds around me, which was not easy to do.

Tubs of natural dyes add to the color at the local market.

One minute Mui was standing next to me, the next he was gone. Vidal and I searched the market, being careful not to lose sight of each other. No sign of Mui. Then, catching a glimpse of the church through an arched gate, I suggested that Vidal check the church while I waited in the market. Two minutes later, Vidal was back with Mui in tow. Having caught the procession of the varayocs and regidores (mayors and deputies), Mui was grinning from ear-to-ear. “This is great; let me show you,” he said as he led the way out of the market.

Mayors from nearby villages pose in front of the church — tips for photos appreciated.

When we arrived at the entrance to San Pedro Apóstol de Pisac, the mayors and their deputies were already in place, posing for the tourists that had congregated around them. It was just as I had read — the men were dressed in knee-length black pants, colorful ponchos, hats that resembled upside down salad bowls, and carried silver-embossed staffs as a symbol of their office. Lined up with the mayors were their young attendants, blowing conch shells with gusto (the conch shells are used to help make way as the mayors walk through the crowds on their way to church). That there was a small plate for tips was a bit disconcerting and detracted from the charm of the scene, but we paid our dues and clicked away nonetheless.

When Vidal said that photography was allowed inside the colonial church before services began, we went in to look around. We didn’t stay long, however …

A peek inside San Pedro Apóstol de Pisac.

Next Up: Day 3 — Uh Oh!

Day 3 — Uh Oh!

Sunday — April 5

That I am writing this post is a good sign, but a good portion of the earlier part of the day is a blur for me. One minute I was listening to Vidal telling us how the church in Pisac had been damaged during the 1950 earthquake, the next I was urgently asking, ¿dónde está el baño?, por favor (where is the bathroom please). Sensing my dire need, Vidal did not stop to ask any questions as he led us to the nearest facilities. What followed would be TMI — too much information — so I’ll cut to the chase.

I have little recollection of how I got to the van after my GI episode, but I do know that I managed to do so under my own steam. The next thing I remember distinctly is being prone on the seat, chills racking my body, and Mui handing me a Cipro pill and a bottle of water. As the van headed out of town, I could hear Vidal and Mui speaking — words like saltines and Gatorade peppered their conversation. We must have stopped at a store before leaving Pisac as a bag with these essentials was soon within easy reach. I took a few sips of the Gatorade to start replenishing my electrolytes, told Mui and Vidal not to forget to stop at the overlook for a view of Pisac, and dozed off again to the sound of chuckles from the men in the van.

Mui filming at the overlook above Pisac.
(photo by Vidal)

When I next opened my eyes, we were at the foot of the steps leading up to Los Apus. Once in bed, I knew I’d be sleeping the rest of the day. I didn’t want anyone hovering over me, so after promising to have the front desk call them on Vidal’s cell phone if need be, I sent Mui and Vidal off to explore the main market in Cusco.

By the way, I am sure that my GI problem has nothing to do with anything I ate in Cusco. I had symptoms a few days before we left on our trip, but I chalked them up to the stress of preparing to go on a trip during a particularly busy time at the office. Had I paid more attention and started the Cipro then, I probably would not have had to endure today’s unpleasant incident.

I’m glad that I listened to suggestions from friends to get a prescription for Cipro from the doctor before we left on our trip. I'm also very glad that Vidal was with us when I had my GI episode. True he’s not a doctor, but he’s well versed in the treatment of what some call “travelers illness” — he has to be since he guides people on the Inca Trail where medical help is not immediately available. His calm demeanor helped soothe both Mui’s and my frayed nerves and enabled us to deal with my “little emergency” in a very practical manner.

Next Up: Day 3 — More Local Color

Day 3 — More Local Color

Sunday — April 5

I tried to get Mui to write this post, but no luck — he still has no interest in authoring a blog entry. I’ll do my best to describe his afternoon and evening out on the town while I was recuperating from my GI incident.

In his book, Exploring Cusco, Peter Frost describes Mercado de San Pedro, the central market in Cusco, as not-to-be-missed with the caveat that it is: “heavily infested with the contemporary pest ‘Turistus pickpocketus’, along with related species ‘T.bagslahia and T. camerasnatchus’.” Thus armed with the knowledge that he needed to be extra vigilant, Mui jumped in with both feet to enjoy another market experience. When I asked him about it after he returned from the outing, he said: “San Pedro was great; but you would have hated the crowds.” He’s probably right; one market a day is my limit.

He and Vidal skipped the tourist stalls and went straight to the heart of the market where the locals shop for the necessities of daily life: colorful fresh fruits and vegetables; heaps of potatoes and corn — there are hundreds of varieties of these two staples of Peruvian cuisine; sacks of aromatic spices and bundles of herbs; stacks of pita-like breads and Easter empanadas; shelf upon shelf of oils, sodas, yogurt drinks, canned goods, soaps, and you name it; carne, pollo, y pescado (meat, chicken, and fish) ready to be taken home for the evening meal; panchita (pig) heads staring with glassy eyes; shoes, clothes, underwear for the family; pots and pans of every shape and size; embroidered linens and decorative baskets; and even shaman booths with everything you need for ritual offerings, including llama fetuses.

“If you can think of it, you can probably find it at this market,” was Mui’s succinct description of what he saw, touched, and smelled.

Iglesia de San Pedro is across the street from the market that bears its name.

Colorful display of fresh fruits at Mercado de San Pedro.
(grab from video)

Llama fetuses — used by shamans in rituals.
(grab from video)

After leaving the market, Mui and Vidal went to Yaku Mama’s Grill on Plaza de Armas for a bite to eat before following a meandering path back to the hotel.

Alpaca kabobs — a low-cholesterol alternative to beef.

Mui was all set to spend the rest of the evening with me, but I had an alternate suggestion for him: the folklore show at the Qosqo Native Art Center. Though leery about leaving me on my own again, Mui didn’t put up much of a fight after I told him I was feeling much better but that I’d be taking another nap. Arriving early at the center, he was able to get a front row-center seat from which he filmed the entire show — something that would not have been permitted in the US. From what I’ve seen of his footage, the high-energy, colorful folklore show was both entertaining and informative with each performance being introduced in both Spanish and English. I’m glad one of us had a chance to see it in person.

Scene from the folklore show.
(grab from video)

Next Up: Day 4 — A Two-Part Visit to Pikillaqta

Day 4 — A Two-Part Visit to Pikillaqta

Monday — April 6

Today was to have been our day to tour some of the less-visited sites on what is known as the southern circuit (they are actually on the road leading southeast out of the city): Tipon, Oropesa, Pikillaqta, Andahuaylillas … to name a few. We ended up changing our original plans slightly in order to include the Pisac ruins. I was sorry to have yesterday’s little GI incident impact our plans, but our decision to skip some of the southern circuit sites to make room for the Pisac ruins turned out to be absolutely the right one for us.

(By the way, I was right as rain today. No signs of yesterday's GI problems. I didn't have much of an appetite, but as I was planning to take it easy with food, that wasn't an issue. I will be continuing the Cipro regimen for the next couple of days.)

As is usually the case for us, we were up and on the road early. By 8:00a, we were making our first stop of the day at Rumicolca (stone storehouse), an immense structure that is part of the Pikillaqta complex. The 40-foot (~12 m) high structure was an aqueduct built by the Wari empire. (The Wari [also Huari] predated the Inca — 700-1000 AD.) The structure may have also served as a border checkpoint for the Wari empire. It is certain that the Inca later fortified the structure to use it as a gateway into the Cusco Valley.

It's my job to provide perspective for the structure by pretending to climb the floating steps on the side of the aqueduct.
If you look closely, you can see the narrow water channel running along the top of the wall.
(photo by Vidal)

We made our second stop at Pikillaqta (aka Piquillacta) — or “flea town,” if you will — later in the morning to visit the main complex. Before exploring the ruins, we stopped briefly at the small museum at the entrance to see the skeleton and armor of an Ice Age dinosaur — a Gliptodonte (giant armadillo) to be precise. The armor, which was found completely intact, was huge.

Glyptodonts could grow to be the size of a VW Beetle.

The sprawling Wari site of Pikillaqta is the only major ruin of a pre-Inca settlement in the Cusco area. Although there was a 10-foot (~3 m) high surrounding wall that hid what was within from prying eyes, Pikillaqta served no defensive purpose. The layout was similar to that of a city with multi-storey buildings and well laid out streets, but archeological studies have revealed that Pikillaqta was not an urban center where people lived on a regular basis. Rather, it seems to have been a ceremonial center. The buildings and the floors were covered with white gypsum stucco — I imagine Pikillaqta of days gone by was dazzling, in more ways than one, under the brilliant Andean sun.

The mid-day sun was harsh and far from ideal for exploring, but we pressed on, wandering the streets and inspecting the excavated buildings where ancestral mummies were kept in niches. It’s thought that these mummies presided over ritualistic festivities held at the site.

View of the valley from Pikillaqta.

Exploring Pikillaqta with Vidal.

Looking down one of the streets of Pikillaqta.
Note the narrowness of the opening in the wall at the far end; the Wari must have been slight of build.

Next Up: Day 4 — Sistine Chapel of the Americas